Well, I'm only about a month behind. Here we go...So, Pesach break is a little over a week long for most people, two weeks for university students. Since a lot of my information comes from those around me who are students, I thought the latter applied to me, and took the opportunity to continue on the Shvil Israel (Israel National Trail). (Realized halfway through the second week that I was meant to be back to the lab, and made it in for, I think, a day and a half. :-P)One of my friends is volunteering a nearby kibbutz, and one of her fellow volunteers had been looking for a hiking buddy, so he and I head out from Lev HaMifratz early in the morning and were to the trail before 8am. (We were starting on Day 6, so we took the bus towards Safed and got off at the stop next to Moshav Meron (if I remember correctly) and walked back down the hill to the trail.)
It was a beautiful day, (finally!) with lovely weather, and we made a great start, over streams and across fields, stopping to explore a cave, and marveling at the flowers and crisp air. 
At one point, three trails intersected, and without seeing the orange/blue/white marker indicating our direction, we opted for the blue trail, since it said it headed for Hwy 86, which we knew we needed to cross…well…up we went. And up. And up. I knew the length of Day 6 was somewhat long, which typically indicates only little steep ascent or descent, so something seemed off. We stopped to check the map and determined we might be on the wrong trail, but since the sign said we’d cross 86, we figured we’d keep on, and just get to the road, walk down it to the left and catch the trail there…and continued to climb.
The further on we went, though, the less it looked like we’d be catching the road, or at least not before we’d spent several hours off the intended trail. Finally we stopped to check the map again, and realized our mistake. A little rest, some aggravation on both parts, and back down we went. When we got back to the sign, I saw the misunderstanding. The sign pointed to the right, but meant for you to walk under it, not in the direction it pointed. Sigh. Back on the trail. Once under the sign and on the trail a few meters, we looked back to see the familiar orange/blue/white behind us, on the side of the rock opposite from where we’d approached it. As we continued on, I remembered reading a warning in the English guidebook to the Shvil about a confusing spot, and that the author of that book also went right when the trail goes left. Ah well, it was a nice canyon we’d hiked up a couple miles, anyway. And goodness knows it was a good workout! But if you’re doing the same trail, look out for that point, for sure!
We set out on the correct trail, mostly flat and headed straight for the road, I think both disappointed at the lost time. I was hoping to hike all of Days 6 and 7 in one day, and my hiking buddy was still recovering from a cough. Neither of us had wanted to draw out the hike longer than necessary. But we could only press on. We came to a rock scramble, and were making our way up and over when his foot lost its grip and his exclamation and echoes rang through the valley, and my heart leapt into my throat. I had switched backpacks for this hike, and forgot to switch the first aid kit from the larger to the smaller, but thankfully it was not a major injury, and after a bit of cringing, and some water, he was able to continue on with a slower pace. But between that and his cough, he was not up for completing the day. He decided to opt out at the next road crossing, but encouraged me to continue on. So, at Route 86, he turned up the highway in search of the closest tachanat (bus stop), and I headed down the hill on the trail that passed beneath the cars.
The tunnel under the highway was filled with cows, who were indifferent to my friendly and somewhat timid suggestions that they come eat the yummy grass outside of the tunnel, and I found the idea of passing between them all in the enclosed space quite intimidating. So, back up the hill and across the busy highway when a break in the traffic allowed me safe passage. The rest of Day 6 went well. Pesach break had brought out numerous day-hikers and picnikers, and it was fun to greet each group along the way. Finally I reached the end of Day 6 and had to decide to push to get to the end of Day 7, or cut the hike short. There were still several hours of daylight left, but once I began Day 7 I wasn’t sure when I’d be able to bale-out if needed. I took the opportunity to stop at a coffee shop, take in some caffeine, carbs, and chocolate :-P, and rest my feet while reading a bit more of “The Catcher in the Rye”. I finally understand the concept the title references! And I thoroughly enjoyed the style of writing (and all my teenager friends that it reminded me of ;-)). After the rest, I was ready to pound out the second half. Visited the bathroom (thankful for the facilities, indeed! A far cry from a bush and hand sanitizer), and turned my face to Mt. Arbel in the distance.
Across the orchards and fields to the base of the hill, and then huffing and puffing, raced up the front of the mount, hoping to have some time atop to enjoy the view and breeze (it’s my favorite place in the country), before heading down the back, hopefully to Tiberias before dark. The hike up the front was one of my favorite sections of the trail so far, but it is certainly not for those with a fear of heights, or clumsy feet. And for that matter, not the best for the end of a long day, with shaking legs climbing up the cliffs. ;-) But I made it to the top without mishap, and took a few minutes to absorb the sight, smell, and sounds before continuing down the other side.
At a fork in the trail, I was searching for a marker down either side, and a group of four young girls caught up to me, also with their map out, scanning both options. After greeting one another and discussion the trail’s direction, we decided to head down to the left and continue for a while together. We knew the trail went through Tiberias, so even if this trail wasn’t the INT, it would at least get us to the city (turns out that the trail does NOT actually go through Tiberias proper, and it had continued to the right when we turned left. Ah well :)). Three of the girls are Orthodox Jewish, and studying at a seminary in Jerusalem, and their other friend that plays softball with them was along for the trip. We had a great time making our way down the hill, having given up the search for the Shvil markers, and rather focused on just getting to the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee), to find a campground on a beach for them for the night, and a bus for me to get back to Haifa. They were lovely lovely girls, and we talked about where we’d been, where we were going, why myself and the other American were in Israel, and laughed…a lot.
Before sunset we stopped so the three Orthodox girls could do their traditional traveling prayers. I of course began my own freestyle, and then the fourth girl came over to me and we chatted while the others finished up. As we approached Tiberias (the end of Day 7), I saw them discussing something briefly before they turned around and invited me to join them for the night. I was surprised after a quick inventory of life, responsibilities, etc., to realize there was no reason not to, and happily accepted when they persisted, telling me they had plenty of food and extra blankets. A call to my roommate to let her know I’d not be home, an odd feeling that I had no dog to consider when staying away for an unplanned night, a shift in mindset, and we set out in search of a place to lay our heads for the night.
We had a great great evening, camping next to the Kinneret under the stars, chatting, laughing, discussing faith, religion, traditions, and personal perspectives, cooking, improvising sleeping arrangements, and discussing the trail we’d start again in the morning. One of their Life stories was particularly incredible, making me even more thankful that I’d accepted their invitation (ask me about it later). In the morning, we packed up and set off in search of where the trial crosses through the city. We eventually found a bus up the hill to the intersection of the trail with the highway, and continued south, on the ridge above the lake. The view was singular all day, and we took it slow and ended early when we came to a bus stop outside Moshav Kinneret, just a few kilometers before the end of Day 8 on the Shvil. After walking back and forth for quite some time, trying to decide on a bus, sherut, or tremping (not the easiest with four of us), we finally hired a taxi to take us back to the central bus station in Tiberias, as we were eager to get to our respective homes after a long two days out (and almost 30 miles of hiking on my part).
My delightful roommate turned on the water heater for me as I made my way home, and we had a lovely evening swapping stories of our last 48 hours. Excellent spring break. :)
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